OVERTURE PETG フィラメント 1.75mm、3D プリンター フィラメント、1kg フィラメント (2.2 ポンド)、寸法精度確率 +/- 0.02 mm

【1】

bambu　A1miniで使いました。特に設定をいじることなく、きれいに印刷できます。乾燥させると尚良し。光沢あります。

【2】

品質も良い意味で普通のPETG、糸引きは少ない印象。

【3】

Bambu Lab P1Sでの使用感ですTemp Towerではノズル温度255℃がブリッジが綺麗で艶も出始め、スパイラルモードでのSpeed Testは378mm/sあたりまで耐え、シームも綺麗でした。PEIプレートにも強過ぎず適度にくっ付いてくれます。もう少し複雑な造形テスト(写真添付)では30mm/s刻みで5段目の150mm/sで崩れ始めたので、120mm/sを上限と判断しました。120mm/sまでは造形が綺麗ですが、PETG特有の艶が少ないです。艶が欲しい時は90mm/s以下で使おうと思います。オレンジ色を購入しましたが、ややあっさりした色味です。派手な蛍光色が欲しい時はeSUN、人参ぽい濃い色が欲しい時はTINMORRYで使い分けてます。

【4】

開封直後のものを乾燥機にかけたところ5時間で10gも軽くなりました。大半は紙製のスプールが吸っていたのでしょうが、フィラメントも相応に吸湿していたものと思われます。商品説明によるとパッケージの防湿は万全そうに見えるのですが、そうでもないようです。肝心の品質はというと、充分に乾燥をかけた後かつSpiral Vaseモードで出力したものを見る限りではかなり好印象でした。高温低速であるほど透明度が増すようで、OrcaSlicerのPAタワー(目的外の使い方だが手頃だった)でいくつか試したところ、MVS=5mm3/sで律速する設定下でノズル=230℃だとやや透けたマットな白、280℃だと透明なすりガラスといった印象になりました。いずれにしても質感は良いので、表現したいものや求める強度で設定を選べば良いかと思います。なお、メーカー推奨のプリント速度は比較的低速ですが、上述の試行中にノズル=250℃でMVS=20mm3/sまで上げた時も押し出しに問題が出た様子はなかったので、換算すると200mm/s程度(レイヤー高0.2mm、線幅=0.4mm)は出せるかもしれません。透明度はお察しですが。

【5】

まずフィラメントの巻き方が綺麗で、 外形寸法 も記載の通りだった。 また 色味も 自然なグレーで 想像通りの色だった。 印刷 もしやすく ノズルの詰まりもないため とても重宝している

【6】

まずは一般的なPETGの設定をそのまま使用してプリントしましたが、表面のネバつくような荒れや糸引きがひどく、正常にプリントできませんでした。設定が駄目なのかと思い、設定をあれこれ変えたりノズルを変えたり、乾燥させたりしては何度も試してみましたが、やっぱり駄目。微妙なこの青がどうしても使いたくてなんとか使いこなそうと数日いろいろ試し続けましたが、どう頑張ってもこれっぽっちも改善の兆しも見えず、結局諦めました。もしかしたら設定次第ではきれいにプリントできるのかもしれませんが、要求される設定がシビアすぎるのか3Dプリンタでこんなに苦労したのは初めての経験でした。かなりの時間を無駄にしました。初めて購入したブランドでしたが、このブランドはもう買いません。

【7】

透明の材質でラジコン飛行機のキャノピーを作ってみたけれど，完全には透明にはならないようです。設定はBambu PETG Translucent ,0.20mm Standard でデータの作り方や積層方向をいろいろ試したけれどブリッジ箇所（添付の右側）に小さな穴が開くことは避けられませんでした。層の厚さは２層で，もっと厚くすれば穴は無くなるけれど重くなってしまうので今回の用途には向きません。

【8】

スライサーの設定を変えたので厳密な比較はできないが、糸は引くももの、定着性、ブリムの外しやすさ、表面品質、押出抵抗抵抗は良好。価格の割に良い。可燃ゴミで捨てられる紙製ボビンも良いと思う。

【9】

My first time with PETG. Bumped my nozzle temp to 240 (pla it is 207). Bed to 65 (pla it is 55).Printed fantastic. No issues yet. config: ender 6 with direct drive and a cover.

【10】

So far I have gone through several rolls of this filament in black, and also have used the transparent, blue, red, and light gray colors.I had a lot of trouble with stringing and globbing with the blue and red filament. I also noticed that the filament was not neatly twisted around the spool, but instead had some sections that were wavy and had some gaps.Based on the printing performance, I suspect the moisture level is not consistent for this product. To get the blue and red filament to behave I ended up reducing the print temperature to 230 degrees C and set the extrusion multiplier to 0.96. This is on a Prusa MK4S. The default PrusaSlicer profile seems to work fine for the other colors.I will keep buying this filament because it's a good value and I think I have it dialed in, but it was frustrating to use the black filament for weeks with no issues and then have to do a lot of tuning (and wasted/failed prints) with some of the other colors to get the same performance.

【11】

Works well. As PETG goes, this is easy to work with, but it is PETG It won't be as forgiving as PLA. That said, you get a strong, heat resistant print that's not as brittle as PLA. Unlike PLA it won't deform because you left it in the car. It's my standard go to filament these days.A couple notes for successful, happy use:Calibrate your printer for the filament with a temp tower, flow rate test, retraction test, and pressure advance test. Slicers such as OrcaSlicer have these tests built-in for ease of use. It takes a bit of time, but once you're dialed in it prints beautifully.If you can, have a printer with an all metal hot end. If you can't do that, change out the PTFE tube in the hot end frequently. PETG print temps degrade PTFE, and degraded PTFE causes clogs and stringing.

【12】

UPDATED REVIEW: Getting this PETG to print was a real struggle for me but... it ended up eventually working so in all fairness I've upped my review stars and I take credit for this as "user error". What it boiled down to was print speed.I was working with common slicer templates for PETG which print around 50mm/sec and I see other people reporting success at that speed but, it was a total mess for me. I found a few reviews that suggested turning the speed way down so I tried it and it made all the difference.I am working with a new Ender 3 v2 Noe with PEI build plate. Using about 240 nozzle and 80 bed. My esteps are calibrated spot on, and my flow calibrated to about about 88 for this material in my machine and these temps. I turned the main print speed down to 30mm/sec and the initial layers, supports, and walls down to 15mm/sec and it completely changed my printing experience with this material.***HERE IS MY INITIAL REVIEW BEFORE I DISCOVERED SLOWING DOWN THE PRINT SPEED***Based on other reviews and pictures, it seems some people have had great results with this filament. My expectations are low, I just wanted decent results as my prints are mostly functional and I am not overly concerned with aesthetics. Unfortunately after hours of testing and tuning I have not achieved a single acceptable result and will likely give up with this Overature PETG.The filament arrived sealed, I have stored it in a vacuum bag and use a heated filament holder when printing. My machine is a new E3v2 Neo with capricorn PTFE tube and a bi-metal heat break. I also print in an enclosure. ZERO luck with this roll of PETG.The pictures show two temp towers, the one on the left I printed with TECBEARS PLA and the one on the right with Overature PETG. Yes, PLA is nice to work with and as you can see, the PLA tower printed clean starting with 215 and 180 on the top; all layers were good with just a little stringing at the top cooler levels. Again, I just hoped for acceptable results with the PETG; I started at 245 on the bottom with 85 bed temp and finished at 215 on the top layer. All levels look terrible.My e-steps are tuned perfect, I did several flow tests printing single and double walled cubes which resulted in overflow and an adjusted flow rate of 88 which resulted in good flow test results on the test cubes but still most all prints fail, I barely got this temp tower shown in my pictures to print and as you can see, it is terrible in all regards.I have done a ton of tests for 1st layer adhesion and z-offset, my bed is super level (I use octoprint to visualize) and I've tried a few z-offset adjustments, no love... My last 1st layer tests turned out good and then I go to print and it wont stick, the filament globs up on the print head and smears around. I absolutely must have a brim, or better yet a raft or my print fails on the first layer.Sure, some folks have had good luck although I've put in the time and a lot of effort and I give up; I cannot get this filament to produce a useable print on my E3v2 Neo.I am not the only one reporting these challenges, maybe Overature has quality control issues with their PETG? Maybe I never found the perfect adjustments but I sure tried and I have to move on now, I can't spend my whole life trying to get a filament to produce "OK" results.***SEE TOP OF REVIEW FOR UPDATED SUCCESS STORY***

【13】

I'm surprised at how well this prints at high heat, as it's needed. It's a little too shiny for my preferences but it prints really well. I have no issues at all.